Situated at the northeast of Qinghai province, Xining lies at the junction of the Lanzhou-Qinghai and the Qinghai-Tibet railway with good transportation. Bordering the harsh Tibet highland, Xining is 2,260 meters above sea level but climate there is much better than that of Tibet. Enjoying a good location surrounded by high mountains, the city has a relatively comfortable climate with neither bone-chilling winter nor sweltering summer and the annually temperature there is about 6 centigrade. Summer in Xining is an ideal season for tourists who can enjoy fresh and crisp weather.
The city is literally translated Western Peace, a projection of wish fulfillment by imperial order. It has long been on the fringes of the western Chinese empire, probably established around the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD), and it remained an important trading post in the area, mainly for goods to and from Tibet and China. It was by the sixteenth century that the city was set up as both a military garrison and a major trading post upon the Southern Silk Route.
It was not until 1928 that the city, with the formal establishment of Qinghai as a province, was to become the official capital. It has now emerged as the political and economic center of the province. The city lies on the Qinghai/Tibetan Plateau at an elevation of around 2,200 meters above sea level, and is around 225km from Lanzhou. With mountains lying sharply to the north of the city, and desolate plains stretching before it, Xining is a welcoming staging point for trekkers to areas beyond. Most of the city lies to the south of the Huangshui River (Huangshui he), and it is more or less bisected by the South River (Nan chuan). The city has its center between two set of crossroads, at Ximen (West Gate) and Dashizi (Big Crossroads). The population within is roughly 60% Han Chinese, but it is the ethnic minorities that give the town its true flavour. Of these it is the Tibetan and Muslim Hui that make up the biggest proportion, accounting for around a quarter of the total population.
Xining was once an important stop on the century-old Silk Road. The boom of the Silk Road in the Han Dynasty is a major factor for the city’s rise. But the city’s historical role gradually declined as the trade route fell into disuse. Xining’s importance in the old trade route means that it has a lot of historical sites. In and around Xining, visitors can find the Ta’er Monastery (Kumbum), one of the two most important Tibetan monasteries outside Tibet, Dongguan Great Mosque. Xining also provide access to some natural attractions with superlative beauty including the Qinghai Lake, the largest inland salt-water lake in China, the Bird Island on the west shore of the Qinghai Lake.
The recently finished Qinghai-Tibet railway marks a new era for Xining’s significant role in tourism. As an important stop along the Qinghai-Tibet track, Xining will be a vital stop for travelers to Tibet. The first luxurious five star sight-seeing trains will start there bound for Tibet highland. Xining’s similarity with Tibet in weather allows Xining an “adapted stop” for visitor who will then gradually adapt themselves to the harsh weather condition in Tibet.
As the capital and only large city in Qinghai, Xining is considered the "gateway to the Qinghai-Tibet plateau". The transport system, by planes, trains or automobiles, is relatively convenient. By Air Public City Bus and Taxi Eating Places Top Around the Western City Gates (Ximen). This is the area to sample the most authentic Muslim yoghurt. Near the Xining Mansion (Xining dasha) at Bayi lu/Jianguo lu. Food stalls here serve a selection of hotpot style dishes (with beef, lamb, vegetables, tofu and vermicelli). Around the Yongfu Hotel (Yongfu binguan) on Jianguo lu/Binhe lu. Stalls and restaurants around here serve mostly Muslim food, including kebabs and mutton dishes. The dishes that derive from these foods are interesting and, if cooked well, can rival much that the more advanced eastern regions can produce. Local restaurants will serve customers such delights as Chicken Cooked with Caterpillar Fungus (Danbai chongcao ji), a nasty sounding, tasty and nourishing dish, Gold-fish-shaped Flagelliform Nostoc (Facai jinyu), Chrysanthemum-shaped Carp Slices (Juhua liyu), Steamed Egg with Flagelliform Nostoc (Facai zhengdan), and Lamb Cooked withSliced Mushroom (Yangrou mogu pian). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Xining is not the most exciting of places for those after a good, 'western' time. The city has a number of clubs and entertainment centers, but the focus here is on karaoke and bowling rather than nightclubs and cinemas. The most attractive of the entertainment to be had here will probably be participating in the ethnic folk culture, and this is best done during the various festivals that are held throughout the year. The dates below are by the Traditional Chinese Calendar (lunar) - you will need to ask exact dates when you are in the region (to translate to the Gregorian you generally add about a month and a half). Most of the festivals are best in and around the Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er si).Getting There
Although it is a seriously backward province, Qinghai still boasts two airports, one in Xining, the capital city and another in Golmud, a small city to the west of the capital. Thanks to its growing popularity among Chinese and foreign backpackers and adventurers, it is now possible to access the capital from almost all the major cities in China, including Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xian. Golmud Airport is far less accessible, and frequently flights here are postponed or cancelled subject to demand. Flights from here have access to Xining and Xian.
Xining Airport is situated at Caojia Bao, 29 kilometers east of the city. Services from and to the major tourism city, like Beijing, Guangzhou, Kunming, Shenzhen, Xian and Chengdu, are available. There are also some flights to Chongqing, Dunhuang, Golmud, and Urumqi. For times, Xining is a significant stop for visitors to Tibet. Many first fly there and then proceed to Lhasa. Direct flights to Lhasa are available there.
The airport lies 29km from the city center, a distance that may be covered either by taking a CAAC bus (RMB8) or a taxi (RMB50). The CAAC office is at 34 Bayi xilu in the eastern quarter of town (8:30am-noon; 2pm-5:30pm; Tel: 0971-8174616).
By Train
Xining is located at the junction of the Lanzhou-Qinghai and the Qinghai-Tibet railway lines, making it possible to reach the city from a multitude of destinations from across China, including Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'an, Qingdao, Yinchuan and Golmud. The Railway station is on Qilian lu, in the northern section of the city, just across the bridge over the Huangshui River. Besides the station, there is a ticket office (Tel: 0971-6136454) at Wusi dajie, that provides both train and flight tickets. he recently operated Qinghai-Tibet railway is a major fact for Xining’s significant role for China’s railway transportation. Tibet. Luxurious trains starting from Xining run along the highland track and take visitors to the mystical Tibet highland, which was only accessible by plane for centuries.
Train ticket, railway station: 0971-7192222
Xinign Railway Station: Qilian Road across the river
By Long-distance Bus
Xining East Long Distance Bus Station is the center of Qinghai’s highway transportation, with hundreds of buses to all major cities and towns with the province or beyond. Bus to Golmud, Lhasa in Tibet, Dunhuang, Lanzhou are abundant. Buses to the Ta’er Monastery are also available but foreigner tourists are advised for they are mainly used by the local population who are familiar with the standard condition.
Cement and asphalt roads link Xining with cities (Golmud, for instance) and towns in the province, as well as distant destinations in Tibet, Xinjiang and Sichuan. The long-distance bus station is at the northern end of Jianguo lu, about 600m south of the railway station (over the river). The ticket office also lies on Jianguo lu (Tel: 0971-8149506). Tickets are best bought one day in advance. If you plan to go to the Kumbum Monastery (Ta'er si), you should go to the other station on Xiguan dajie (see sight description for more). You could also try the private minibuses outside of the Xining Hotel, but negotiation over price is necessary (no more than RMB10). Getting Around
There are over 10 buses in town that are convenient if you can find a map with bus routes. It is probably easier for foreigners, however, and not overly expensive, to take taxis around the city, and the prices of these can be negotiated (around RMB5 for 3km).
For places to eat, especially at night, your best bet are the markets scattered about town that provide quick, cheap food/snacks. The most famous of these is the Water Well Alley Night Market (Shuijing gang shangchang), with over 3,000 stalls, that can be found on Shuijin gang, just near the West Gate (Ximen) and off Xi dajie. There is also a big night market on Daxing jie. Bus No.1 will take you to the Dashizi stop and from here it is a short walk north near Yinma jie.
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Famous Local Dishes Top
As with much of Qinghai Province, the capital Xining has long been a fairly inhospitable, not easily accessible area and the food that is produced here reflects this. The locals have since ancient times relied upon native food materials that can be found in most areas throughout Qinghai. These most famously include the Chinese Caterpillar Fungus (Dongchong xiacao), Chrysanthemum Carp (Li yu), Flagelliform Nostoc (Facai), and various forms of local Mushroom.
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Famous Local Snacks Top
For many travelling here, the more common dishes are also worth trying, and they will be cheaper. These can be found in the markets and on most streets, cooked in front of your salivating mouths. The specialties are strongly Tibetan or Muslim influenced and the concentration on mutton and noodles reflects this. These include Lamb Tenderloin (Feng'er liji), Kebab (Kao yangrou), Yu Rangpi (similar to the Dunhuang Rang pizi), Wang's Thick Sliced Noodle Pieces (Wang mianpian), Cold Noodles (Liang mian), Soup Cooked with Lamb and Oxen Entrails (Zasui tang), Hand Held Mutton (Shouzhua yangrou) and Lamb Liver(Zhu yanggan). For breakfast you should really try the tasty Muslim Yoghurt (Qingzheng suannai), a naturally sour, although often sweetened, cow/water-buffalo/yak yoghurt. Also of interest, at least to watch, is the breakfast in the old district of the city, where peasants will provide the cow for your own milk (bring a glass and they will milk the beast for you).
The Cafe Top
(Xining bingguan) in the Xining Hotel at 215 Qili lu. The best "cafe" in town--a vast Chinese-style hall with big round tables where enticing Mongolian hotpot buffet can be had for a cheap RMB35.
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Yongfu Hotel Top
(Yongfu binguan) on Jianguo lu/Binhe lu. This hotel has a small restaurant that serves cheap dishes. The area around the hotel also does decent Muslim food.
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Xiaoyuanmen Restaurant Top
(Xiaoyuanmen shifu) on Dongguan dajie. Serves good Muslim food.
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Mazhong Rangpi Restaurant Top
(Mazhong rangpi fandian), not far from the Daxing jie night market. Prices here are extremely cheap, a section for just RMB4.
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Yinghua Mianpian Restaurant Top
(Yinghua mianpian fandian), reached using bus No.33 from the railway station, getting off at the Shaanshantai stop. Serves large bowls of these squares of noodles for RMB5.
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Shang Yi Da Xia Top
At 190 Dongguan lu. Small Muslim restaurant that does some good hotpots.
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Qinghai Minzu Hotel Top
(Qinghai minzu binguan) on Dong dajie/Huayuan lu. Has a good restaurant within.
Entertainment Places Top
15th January is the traditional Lantern Festival, where the locals provide an "exhibition" of the Yak Butter Sculptures.
Hua'er Folk Song Festivals are held on May 5, June 6 and September 9. This style of singing, and the customs that go with it, are widely practiced not only in Qinghai, but also in Gansu and Ningxia. The occasion is a chance to hear the nomads singing folk songs, either impromptu or staged.
Other customs without set dates include the Yak Racing and Archery that are practiced by different tribes throughout the region. These are nowadays mainly used as activities of commemoration for gallant nomadic ancestors, although the yaks still remain important agricultural tools.